Ni ming bai le ma?

As a new and confused Laowai (foreigner) not knowing a word of Mandarin, all I could say was 'What the hell are you talking about?'. And I'm sure the feeling was mutual when I responded in English to the Chinese in front of me.
But after all, I was in a country where you can't get past without knowing the local language. And as a newbie to Shanghai I already had plenty on my plate, so didn't want the additional burden of learning a new language. While in the US; when Ram's office offered the distance learning class for Mandarin, though I had the inclination I did not find the time to learn it. However, I guess I did the right thing not wasting time on it. Moreover, I thought I will learn the language by observing and interacting with the local crowd here in China. Not sure what I was thinking about when I assumed that. But after 3 months in this country I realized that there are no shortcuts in learning this language. Because the most important advice I can offer to future Mandarin learners - "do it in person NOT online". Mandarin is one language which is better learned face to face. 'It is' as hard as it sounds and looks, and learning it from a teacher is the only way out. Fortunately, you have teachers here coming to your house to teach you.....now, that's something you call 'outright customized and personal'.
I have been taking classes for the last 3 weeks from my teacher Jenny who comes home twice a week. But learning the language is an overwhelming experience. A character in Chinese can have multiple pronunciation and tones. And every tone associated with a word can have a different meaning. However I cannot give up learning, not because Mandarin is the language of the future but because I got to survive in this country. It is overwhelming and I still walk away with a massive headache and an overload, after every Mandarin lesson, but it's worth the while. After all, I can now go out shopping, bargain and get things I want. I now understand at least partially what my Ayi (maid) and Si Ji (Driver) are trying to tell me. In fact I have been attempting to talk to my Ayi and Driver in Mandarin now and have been successful in making them understand what I want. They do have a smile on their face when I say something in Mandarin though. Not sure if that smile means they appreciate the fact that I'm putting efforts in learning the language or if I'm probably sounding stupid with an accent that is not Chinese ;-). Now when someone says 'Ni ming bai le ma'? (Do you understand) I can hope to say 'Wo ming bai le' (I understand).
Isn't that wonderful, because now I am one of them :).

Autograph Please

After 2 months in China I think I have managed to defeat culture shock and adapt myself here. It is a big achievement! However, there still was one thing that bothered me....until last week. Why does everyone (and I mean everyone) have to stare at me every time I walk into the supermarket or walk around the block? And from what I heard from other friends here, they all have experienced this.
Last week (Oct 1 - Oct 9) we had a good 9 days holidays for the China National day. We thought it's a good time to go around and explore Shanghai. Instead of going in our car , we thought of taking a sightseeing bus tour. We took the bus and got down at the Bund (Waterfront area) on the Puxi side where the Pudong side of skyscrapers look magnificent. Well I must say it was crowded, insanely crowded. After all it's the national holiday - time when one of the world's largest migration happens and this migration mostly happens to Beijing and Shanghai when tourists from within and outside China come visit. This is the period of intensely heightened travel activity and it is the worst possible time of the year to travel in the country. The trains and buses are terribly overcrowded, plane fares and hotel rates are jacked up by as much as 100% over the usual prices, and the pickpockets are out in full force. Even though it was over bearing, it encapsulated a lot of what can be said to be the essence of China.
While we were enjoying the view of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, Jinmao Tower, Shanghai Ocean Aquarium, Shanghai World Financial Centre Tower and many others, I could feel the flat out 'stare' in my direction. I was used to a couple stares while at the stores or anywhere outside, but not so much as a 100 pair of eyes on me. I was starting to get a little conscious..........
While I was feeling uncomfortable a Chinese lady walked up to Ram and handing him her camera asked if he could take a picture of her with me. Ram obliged. Next her son walked up to Kush and Arjun asking if we could take one more. While were doing that we saw a few of them standing next to us and asking their families to take a picture (without even asking us). Wow! Here I am a 'Celebrity'! Another lady walked by asking her husband to take a picture of her with Ram and I. To be honest, I started liking the attention, as a matter of fact, I just loved it. I was starting to feel like Julia Roberts or more like Angelina Jolie. Ram and I were the Brangelina of Shanghai (temporarily at least) :).
Until the Beijing Olympics, people in China have not been exposed to many foreigners much less been close to one. It is only natural that they would try to get a good look at us. So what if they stare? Chinese people are so very caring and friendly. Now I don't let stares bother me. I enjoy all the attention and walk on with a smile............................

Chinglish

Nope...not a typo. It is Chinglish, English written the Chinese way with English characters. Confused? So, was I. But this is a new developing form of communication in China which is derived from poor translations carried out by Chinese English-speakers.. Shanghai is much more open to other cultures, customs and languages compared to Beijing. All signs, posts, publications all are also written in English. I mean, they are literally translated from Chinese to English. Here's an example:
'You are your own safety. Walk looking down'. Well, it means 'You are responsible for your safety. Watch your step'. This was put up on a local bus.
Here's one more borrowed from a cooking competition pamphlet put up in our clubhouse - 'If you join the cooking match, please mail us at least 3 pictures of the meal with one picture is your family eating it, the ingredient and procedures of the meal. The meal must be decency and all ingredients must be legally'.
Brings a smile on your face, doesn't it? This is decipherable with a bit of patience and a keen eye for humor. Whenever I'm down and feel homesick, I go in search of these posts....it just makes my day :)

International Integration

It has been drizzling since morning. Instead of taking the kids to their regular soccer field took them to the clubhouse today. There's a cute play area there with kids of all ages having fun. The room looked a little crowded and I went and sat in a corner while my kids were off to play. Looked around and saw a lot of Ayi's sitting in groups having a conversation. Ayi means Aunty in chinese but is frequently referred to a housekeeper or maid . Pretty much every expat here has an Ayi either full time or part time. Ayis do a damn good job at what they do....whether it is cleaning the house or taking care of the kids.
I found a couple blonde haired ladies and went up to and said 'Hello'. One of the lady was from Spain but brought up in Canada for 10 years. The other one was from Germany and the third one I met was from Turkey living in China for the last 3 years. They asked me how I feel in China. I said it's getting better (and I wasn't lying). I told them that apart from the language everything here was nice. The lady from Spain quickly said - "Ah you are lucky to speak English lady. If you speak in English you will survive in China. I have a friend who speaks nothing but Spanish and she's struggling even after spending more than a year here."
That gave me some courage. Look at me....I can speak 3 Indian languages and English. I should be able to pick up Chinese as well. Here I am in a community where people from all parts of the world live in peace and harmony. They came here and went through all the emotions that I am going through. Yet now they say they love this place and this is home. Time to stop cribbing and take it head on. OK China....bring it on. I will try to learn your ways and fall in love with you like everyone else here does.

First shopping in Shanghai

Took the ferry today to the other side of the HuangPu river (from Pudong to Puxi) with two new friends I made here. In 2 mins I was in Puxi (pronounced Pushi). Visited Chreng Huang Miao...i had a hard time recollecting this name to type it out. But well, it's the most crowded place thus far I've seen in Shanghai. It's a shopping mall/market in Shanghai. There are plenty of shopping options here including 2 yuan, 5 yuan and 10 yuan shops similar to the dollar tree stores we have in the US. Don't expect the things in these shops to go for long. I got a few toys for the kids which I know for sure will be ditched by them in 2 days. Apart from these petty shops you'll find Chinese handicrafts, wonderful souvenirs and other exquisite items. If not for my very helpful friends, communicating and going around would have been a challenge. But hey, I am learning a few words now...'Chaga duo shao Qian?" meaning 'how much does that cost' is one thing I learnt from this very dear friend in Shanghai.

I would have probably shopped my heart out if not for the soaring heat outside. It was extremely hot and humid and the kids were getting a little uneasy. We had Iced Lemonade Tea at a juice center and it was so refreshing. Then hopped onto a taxi got back home, turned on the AC and crashed. Within minutes the sky got dark. A thunderstorm with rain and a lot of wind cooled down the air. Now...getting ready to say good night.

Plate'o mania

After settling down we order food from India Kitchen. It takes us 3 calls to finally get someone on the phone who could speak in English. But then the good part was that they agreed to deliver food to the hotel. Food arrives in about 30 mins. We needed some plates so we call the hotel front desk and order for 4 plates. In 5 mins, we hear the doorbell. When we open the door there's a boy standing there with 4 'forks'. We say we need 'plates'. He gives a weird look so we ask him...English? He says 'Pu' (yippeee...we had learnt that Pu means 'no'). So, Ram enacts eating and tells him we need plates. He had a bright smile on his face and he nods and goes back. He's back in a few minutes standing with 4 more forks...this time the forks were shorter than the ones he got last time. Oh god, this time both Ram and I enacted by circling and telling him what we wanted. Wish we were smart enough to go to Google translate and show and make him listen to what we wanted. But well, I guess the travel had made our brains dumb. Anyway, he again nodded and went back leaving us to hope he'll be back with what we want before the food gets cold. In a couple minutes the phone rings...it was from the hotel restaurant. They ask us in broken English what we wanted. We said 'PLATES' and they asked us if we wanted 'Blades'? I was going to say 'yes', i just want to kill myself...but gathered my composure and repeated. Looks like they finally got it and the same boy came back with real 'plates'. I just felt like hugging him...phew! First day and what an experience.

China Land

Ni Hao Shanghai. I have embraced you with open arms leaving behind my relationship of twelve years with Portland. I am all equipped to step into my new role of an explorer along with my family. Ready, get set, go.............
Immigration and customs was a cake walk. What more? Hop into the cab and go to my hotel. I see the Marriot counter right in front of me. We walk there and the guy in the counter talks to me in English asking me if I need a taxi. We say 'Yes' and he talks to someone on his walkie talkie in Chinese. 500 yuan and my family and I get into this 7 seater Buick minivan and off we go....
What a beautiful city this is...city of skyscrapers...yet, not as crowded as I thought, a lot more road discipline than I thought, very friendly demeanor than I thought and most of all very easy to live in than I thought...well, everything true but the last one.
45 minutes and we are in our hotel room in Pudong, Shanghai. What is Pudong? Good question. Pudong is a district in Shanghai and is named because of it's location on the east side of the Huangpu river. "Pu" in Mandarin means River and "Dong" means East, thus Pudong means East of the river. The West of the river is the district of Puxi, "xi" pronounced as "shi", so as to say "Pushi".

Standing next to the huge window of our hotel room I see the new area of Pudong.
But my heart cries out for Portland, my house, my people. I feel totally out of place.